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Start With the Opening, Not the Look

It is tempting to begin with a photo of an oak-framed pair of gates and work backwards. In practice, the opening decides almost everything else. Measure the gap between your pillars or posts in millimetres, then measure it again at the widest and narrowest points — old brickwork is rarely square, and a driveway that narrows by 40mm over three metres will ruin a tight tolerance gate.

Think about what has to pass through. A family hatchback needs around 2.4 metres of clear opening to swing in comfortably; a long-wheelbase van or a caravan needs considerably more, and you should allow at least 300mm of clearance either side of the widest vehicle. If the drive slopes, note the gradient, because a gate that swings uphill will scrape and one that swings downhill may hang awkwardly when open.

Finally, check the boundary. In England and Wales, gates more than one metre high next to a highway used by vehicles generally need planning permission, and higher gates elsewhere may also be restricted. It is a five-minute call to your local planning authority and worth making before you order.

Choose a Material That Suits the House and the Weather

Every material has a personality, and the right one usually relates to the building rather than to fashion.

• Timber — warm, traditional, and repairable. Softwood needs treating every year or two; hardwood such as oak or iroko lasts far longer but costs more and still benefits from an occasional oil. Timber suits brick, flint and stone cottages.
• Steel — the strongest option per pound spent, and ideal for wide openings. Hot-dip galvanised steel will not rust through, and a powder-coated finish in a matched colour looks sharp against render or modern brick. It is heavier, so automation needs a beefier motor.
• Aluminium — light, rust-free and almost maintenance-free, with a huge range of powder-coat colours. It suits contemporary homes and is the friendliest choice for automation because the moving weight is low.
• Composite and PVCu — stable, inexpensive and never need painting, though they can look flat on a period property. Best kept for side gates or modern developments.

Consider wind exposure too. A solid boarded gate on an exposed coastal or hilltop site acts like a sail, and the posts, not the gate, usually fail first. Slatted or perforated designs let air through and last longer.

Pick an Opening Style That Fits Your Drive

Opening style is where practicalities collide with kerb appeal.

• Swing gates are the classic choice, single or double. They need clear space behind them to swing inwards, or in front to swing outwards, and outwards-swinging gates can encroach on the pavement. Beware of bins, drain covers and parked cars.
• Sliding gates run along a track or cantilever beside the drive and need no swing room at all — ideal for short or steep drives. They require a flat run of wall or fence to slide against, and cantilever versions need a substantial concrete foundation.
• Bi-fold and telescopic gates fold back into a compact stack, which is useful where you have a narrow driveway but limited space to the side.
• Pedestrian and garden gates should match the main gate in style, material and colour. A matching side gate that actually latches properly closes the gap most burglars use.

Security: Hinges, Locks and Height

A gate is a deterrent, not a fortress, but the details matter. Look for hinges welded or bolted through the frame rather than surface-mounted, and gate posts set at least 600mm into a concrete footing — a 100mm post is a sensible minimum for a swing gate, 150mm for anything automated. Ground bolts, a good-quality mortice latch or a shrouded padlock on a closed shackle all add resistance.

Height is a judgement call. Anything under 1.8 metres is easy to see over, which many people prefer for a friendly street frontage; 1.8 metres and above gives real privacy. Remember that a tall solid gate also hides your car from you, so consider a slatted top section or a small viewing panel. If the gate is automated, fit safety edges and photocells, and never let a gate close onto a public footway without them.

Automation, Access and Day-to-Day Living

Automation is where a gate stops being decoration and becomes genuinely useful. Underground motors keep swing gates looking clean but need drainage; above-ground rams are cheaper and easy to service. Sliding gates use a rack-and-pinion motor, which is quiet and reliable. Whichever you choose, plan the power supply early — running a cable to a pillar is far cheaper before the drive is finished than after.

Think about how visitors, deliveries and the postman get in. An intercom, a keypad, a video entry system or simply a pedestrian gate beside the main opening all solve the same problem. Also check that your gate does not block a shared access or a right of way, because a neighbour's objection can be far more expensive than the gate itself.

Budgeting and Looking After What You Buy

Prices vary widely, but a rough shape for the budget is: a modest single timber gate with posts and fittings sits at the lower end; a double hardwood or steel gate with automation and an intercom at the upper end. Fitting typically adds a meaningful slice, and groundwork — footings, a sliding track, a power feed — is the part people forget.

Then plan for maintenance. Timber wants a wash and a re-oil every 12 to 24 months; metal wants a check for chips and a touch-up to keep rust out; moving parts want greasing annually. Do that, and a well-chosen gate will quietly do its job for twenty years or more, framing the drive and keeping the house a little more private, a little more secure, and a good deal more finished.